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Care Information We have care information to help ensure that you look after your animals. Please browse through the care sheets listed below. If you have any questions or need information from Ultimate Reptile Suppliers phone 08 8262 9162 or fax 08 8262 9164 or email us.
URS Vivarium set up instructions Please take the time to carefully read through these instructions before attempting to set up or use your URS vivarium. 1 This vivarium has been designed so that the URS vivarium lamp can be fitted into the dome. The cord follows out through the groove and it is recommended that you secure this with heated glue. Make sure that the mesh circle provided with the URS lamp is fitted to protect the animal from burns. Please note: the URS vivarium lamp is designed for a maximum of 100watts and cannot be used with a ceramic heat emitter. It is recommended that you use an appropriate wattage small Oz Purple or infrared incandescent globe and connect this to a thermostat (see step c). 2 To heat the floor of the vivarium, either a heat mat or heat cord is recommended. Fit this underneath the vivarium. The heat source should only cover half of the floor space so you have a warm and cool area for the animal to regulate its body temperature. Please read any instructions concerning the fitting of these as some heat mats require adequate airflow. Sit the vivarium on a piece of board or other stand as required. 3 A probe thermostat should be connected to your heat sources. Drill a hole at the back near the base of the vivarium just big enough for the probe to fit through. Run your probe into the vivarium and fasten the sensor over the heated area (if regulating a heat mat or cord) or underneath the heat source (if regulating a globe). Place on the floor between the two if regulating both. Use heated glue to fasten the cord to the bottom of the vivarium. NOTE: DON’T cover sensor with glue as this can either damage the sensor or cause it not to read temperature correctly. Also, there are a large range of microclimate thermostats that are suited for different heat sources. Please email us to explain what is best for you. 4 If you require lighting in your URS vivarium, you can either fit a 18” or 24” single batten into the vivarium. Remember to get a qualified electrician to do any wiring. If you are housing snakes, always cover the lighting with the appropriate mesh cover. If you are housing animals that require UV lighting, an appropriately sized reptistar UV tube can be fitted into these battens. 5 Cover part of the venting at the back if the vivarium is not reaching the right temperature. There is more than enough venting supplied. 6 Fit a URS glass lock to the doors of your vivarium for added security.
1 To heat the floor of the vivarium, either a heat mat or heat cord is recommended. Fit this underneath the vivarium. The heat source should only cover half of the floor space so you have a warm and cool area for the animal to regulate its temperature. Please read any instructions concerning the fitting of these as some heat mats require adequate airflow. Sit the vivarium on a piece of board or other stand as required. 2 A probe thermostat should be connected to your heat sources. Drill a hole at the back near the base of the vivarium just big enough for the probe to fit through. Run your probe into the vivarium and fasten the sensor over the heated area. Use heated glue to fasten the cord to the bottom of the vivarium. Note: DON’T cover sensor with glue as this can either damage the sensor or cause it not to read temperature correctly. Also, there are a large range of microclimate thermostats that are suited for different things. Please email us to explain what is best for you. 3 If you require lighting in your URS vivarium, you can either fit a 18” or 24” single batten into the vivarium. If you are housing snakes, always cover the lighting with the appropriate mesh cover. If you are housing animals that require UV lighting, an appropriately sized reptistar UV tube can be fitted into these battens. 4 Cover part of the venting at the back if the vivarium is not reaching the right temperature. There is more than enough venting supplied. 5 Fit a URS glass lock to the doors of your vivarium for added security. These vivariums are best cleaned with Cage cleaner and paper towel.
For any other information phone or fax Ultimate Reptile Suppliers on 08 8262 9162, you can also email us. Reptile Heating & Lighting Reptiles need both Heating and Lighting.
Ultraviolet Light (UVA & UVB) is essential for Lizards also Diamond Pythons, and will benefit all Reptiles. UV lighting is required to manufacture vitamin D3, which is essential for the absorption of calcium. Its absence will result in illness such as Metabolic Bone Disease and Calcium Rigor (i.e. ricketts, dragging of the hind legs and spinal deformities). The fact that very little UVB actually passes through glass along with the danger of overheating by the sun through the glass means that the only satisfactory method of lighting is to use the correct UVA & UVB tubes. U.R.S. (Ultimate Reptile Suppliers) recommends Reptistar tubes for all reptiles or ReptiSun 5.0 tube for lizards and ReptiSun 2.0 tube for snakes and pythons. CAUTION: ELECTRICITY IS DANGEROUS. Use a qualified electrician to install your light fittings. However, remember that electricians are not experts in reptile heating and lighting requirements. There are two main types of heat - basking heat for reptiles which spend a lot of time on branches or high in the cage and ground heat for reptiles that spend a lot of time on the ground. All heat sources should be connected to a thermostat. Basking Heat: This is provided by an overhead heat source, usually a ceramic heater, basking lamp or an infrared lamp All of these heat sources are available through U.R.S. These should be placed so as to provide a basking hot spot and to provide general heat throughout the vivarium. White lights must not be used at night. Heaters can be left unshielded in lizard enclosures, but shields of fine mesh are essential in snake vivaria to prevent them from burns. Ground Heat: In shallow vivaria, ground heat is suitable although radiant heat from the basking heater can warm the substrate sufficiently, especially if a piece of slate is placed below the heater. In taller vivaria or in much cooler climate locations, additional heating will be required at floor level. Low level heating can be provided by the use of heat cords, heat pads, heated hides and in some cases, hot rocks. All of these are available through U.R.S. It should be noted that hot rocks or rock heaters are not heat emitters but provide a warm surface for belly heat only like an electric blanket and do not warm the vivarium. In the case of some venomous snakes, such as adders, ground heat only can be adequate. WARNING: Most European and American books assume that a vivarium will be in a air conditioned room at 22 degrees celsius. Many examples given will not apply to local conditions. The Thermal Gradient: Because reptiles need to vary their temperatures, they must have a choice of ground and air temperatures within their enclosure. `Thermal Gradient` is a term describing temperatures ranging from mild to hot from one end of the vivarium to the other. Differences of 5 degrees to 8 degrees celsius are usual, depending on the species kept. For this reason, heating should be set up at one end of the vivarium only. Vents should be in all enclosures to let the air circulate. Temperature Control: Because temperatures vary greatly in most homes and depending on your enclosure, it is wise to use a thermostat to properly control temperatures and ensure the safety of the animals. Overheating can be even more dangerous than under heating. U.R.S. has a wide range of thermostats available: basic thermostats that need to be wired up by an electrician, thermostats with a probe and power cord ready wired and the new microclimate thermostats that have been designed for different uses (e.g. for use with globes, for day and night cycles and some with alarms to indicate too hot or too cold) simply plug heat source into thermostat and place probe in the centre of the vivarium. Thermostats without probes must be placed in the centre of the vivarium, usually on the back inside wall. No animals should be heated without a thermometer in the enclosure to monitor the performance of the heater. One should be fixed alongside the thermostat, while a second thermometer can be moved around the vivarium to check the thermal gradient. Remember that glass aquariums lose heat readily and are not really suitable for keeping reptiles. A properly constructed wooden vivarium retains heat, and provides for easy mounting of light and heating equipment. So too do the unique polyethylene URS vivariums. These are also very easy to clean and can be stacked together. Quality Vivariums are available through URS. Click here to view how to set up. Lighting UVA and UVB lights are needed for most reptiles. Ultraviolet Light. This can be provided using a Reptistar fluoro tube for all your reptiles or the ReptiSun 5.0 for lizards and turtles and ReptiSun 2.0 for snakes, pythons, amphibians and arachnids. Reptistar and ReptiSun tubes are made especially for reptiles. They simulate sunlight by providing the beneficial UVA and UVB wavelengths which increase appetite, activity and reproductive behavior in captive reptiles and also prevents diseases and infections occurring. DO NOT use the extremely strong "Blacklight Blue" (BLB) tube or poster globes. These can harm your animals eyes. Eight watt mini lights are definitely inadequate. The UV tubes should be fitted in a batten, and turned on for daylight hours only. UV tubes have a limited life and must be renewed every six to twelve months even though they still show visible light. As with heating, shielding of the light is not necessary for lizards but is a must for snakes and pythons. Shields should be made of smooth mesh. Plastic diffusers will not allow adequate UV rays to reach the reptile. UVA and UVB tubes are not heaters. A UV tube will increase temperature by about 2 degrees celsius in the immediate vicinity of the tube. They do not provide adequate heat for the rest of the vivarium. On extremely warm days lights may have to be turned off to prevent overheating. Reptile vivariums and heating and lighting equipment are available through Ultimate Reptile Suppliers, we also stock a large range of captive bred reptiles and all accessories needed for the proper care of your reptile, see our Products page. |
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Reptiles Do Not make heat for themselves, but maintain necessary body temperatures by taking heat from their environment. The required body temperature varies according to the species, the time of day, and the stage of digestion of food. For this reason, there must be a variation in temperature from one end of the vivarium (